Day 84 Brownsea Island Walk

A perfect day and Spring is in the air! We get the Breezer 40 bus into Poole to catch the ferry across to Brownsea Island and by 11.00 we are ready to start our walk for today. We have a downloaded OS map, the Garmin SatNav, Mary's phone and a National Trust guide to the island so we shouldn't get lost! We decide to walk a combination of the three marked routes, so that should cover most of the island; and the first section is through woodland where we hope to catch at least a glimpse of the rare red squirrels which inhabit the island.

I think we are very lucky but also because we are ahead of the majority of visitors and headed into a part of the island which is well away from the visitors centre, the cafe and people! There, in the trees above us, we spot a movement! Running along the branches and leaping from one tree to the next we see our first and as it turns out our one and only red squirrel. We see it very clearly as it scurries up trunks and jumps from branch to branch and tree to tree.

As we reach the end of the island we drop down onto the foreshore and work our way along this until we reach Pottery Pier. Many memories for Mary and I having visited the island with Mary's father on his boat in the seventies. In those days we just dropped anchor and rowed ashore.


From Pottery Pier, still unsafe as it was then, we continue along the southern side of the island taking in a number of stunning viewpoints, the site of Baden Powell's first campsite for scouts in 1907, the commemorative stone and further views of Poole Harbour, the Sandbanks Ferry and harbour entrance; and beyond that the cliffs above Studland Village and Old Harry. All in brilliant sunshine.

 We end with a visit to St Mary's Church, still lit by candles alone; and a short stop to watch wading birds from the hides at the lagoon. Identified Avocets and Shell ducks amongst the many feeding just in front
of us.

The RNLI Inshore Lifeboat just before it ran aground!

The return boat trip is an around the harbour tour and the crew take great delight in pointing out vessels either already aground in shallow water, or about to become so! This included an RNLI lifeboat which was predicted to hit a sandbank and did, much to everyone aboard's amusement.



In spite of the small size of the island only 1.5 miles from end to end our doubling back, detours down every path leading to a viewpoint means we manage over 5.5 before we embark at the end of our walk.

5.7 miles

Day 83 Poole Harbour Trail to Poole Quay

We delay our start as the weather forecast predicts all rain for the day will be over by 11.00 so we aim to catch the 10.55 bus to Upton House Country Park where the walk for today will begin. We aren't sure exactly where we need to get off and Mr Grumpy driver doesn't seem inclined to be of much help, but another passenger gives us the nod and presses the Stop button for us. The walk begins with a stroll through the Country Park and down to the foreshore.

The trail in places has been diverted due to conservation measures and the protection of migrating birds, but we are soon on the edge of Poole Harbour itself. This is right at the very top end of the largest natural harbour in England and here it is mostly mud flats and rushes on the water's edge. We pause a while to watch feeding birds including Black Tailed Godwits, Crested Grebes and Little Egrets amongst others!

The walk is an amazing contrast - on one side the peace and natural world of the shoreline of Poole Harbour with all the wildlife of the mud flats; and, on the other, the busy traffic filled A350 into Poole where we eventually arrive.

We follow signs to the Old Town and Quay and the route takes us down a depressingly distressed High Street filled with Charity Shops, low price outlets and bookmakers. Even the Quay area looks and feels rundown and our lunch at the Jolly Sailor an experience we would rather forget!

Finally it is back through he town to buy a replacement waterproof jacket from Go Outdoors and the the bus back to Lychett Minster.

7.5 miles

Day 81 Studland, Ballard Down and Old Harry Rocks

View over Poole Harbour

A short drive to Studland Bay and we park at the car park we had stopped at on our first trip in the “old” Marianne. Mary positions the van in probably the very same location. We are walking today in the opposite direction from the last time we had been here. So we start with the steep climb up to Ballard Down, stopping a number of times to look back on the stunning vista of Poole Harbour. On attaining the ridge we turn west and head for the coast.

This is a beautiful open grassy ridge with 360 degree views. We follow the ridge, meet the coast path and turn towards the picturesque coastal formations at Old Harry Rocks. There is a school group here on a geography field trip and the staff clearly have the students under close control as they near the cliff edge.

Mary as we reach the ridge of Ballard Down

The obligatory photos taken and we continue along the coast path into Studland Bay, drop down onto the beach at the first opportunity and make our way back, dodging the gently breaking waves, for another late lunch back at the van.

We later drive along to the chain ferry and walk along the beach in the low late afternoon sunshine. We each have our own memories of sailing in and out of this magnificent harbour entrance on vessels large and small. Additional distance not recorded!

Old Harry Rocks

4.8 miles

Day 80 Corfe Castle to Swanage via Worth Matravers and the Coastpath

Our Route

We have done this walk before and even though it was just nine years ago neither of us had much recollection of doing it, except we could both recall where we had sat at the Square & Compass in Worth Matravers for a half-way drink.  This is a combination of two 1001 AA walks but it doesn’t help that the instructions are in the reverse direction! This time we have the Garmin to assist and we need it to navigate around Corfe before picking up the “official” route.

This first section is across more Dorset heathland and once again on Corfe Common there are ponies, though these look more domesticated and some even have coats! We make a brief re-acquaintance with the Hardy Way, but soon we are on the Purbeck Way and we shall follow this almost all the way to Worth Matravers. We stop to chat with some fellow walkers coming towards us – a vicar and her husband; who, new to walking, had taken it up during her sabbatical to get fit. Then it was on southwards to skirt the enormous Stanwith Quarries before the gentle climb into Worth Matravers. 

Spot the Fossil

We are spoilt for quirky pubs in Somerset, but this one is rather special. In the same family for many generations the low ceilinged building has serving hatches into the corridor which links the various rooms but on a sunny day we have found a sheltered spot and sit outside. It’s the only pub I know of with its own museum attached! This is a proper walker’s pub and although home made pasties are on offer we just have a drink before setting off once again to walk down the field path, observing some prominent strip lychetts as we head for the coast path and a picnic stop at Seacombe out of the cold wind and in a warm sunny spot.

Gateway to the Coastpath

Unlike much of the SW Coastpath this section in Dorset is relatively level and we can keep up a good pace as we head East, with interesting geological formations and industrial archaeology in the cliffs below us. In the past these were sea facing quarries and the best stone was lowered from the cliff quarries into small boats before the stone was transferred to larger vessels standing just off the shore. Dancing Ledge is one of the most spectacular of these and today the cliffs and quarry face are used for adventurous outdoor activities.

Strange Globe at Durlston Head

We are familiar with this section of the coast from the sea and we pass the first of the mile markers we had often observed sailing here with Mary’s dad, Brian. Then a mile later we pass the second pair just past the lighthouse at Anvil Point. On rounding this there are views to Durlston Head and beyond that the Isle of Wight. At Durlston Head there is a giant stone globe and we pause here before turning the corner and heading towards Swanage. The view here is across Swanage Bay to Old Harry Rocks and the high rise of Bournemouth beyond.

View Over Swanage Bay to Old Harry and Bournemouth

As time is pressing we cut a corner and head down into the town to catch the local bus service back to Corfe and the final leg of the walk around the edge of the ruined castle and back on field tracks to the campsite.

12.5 miles

Day 79 Hardy’s Birthplace Cottage Walk

Hardy's Birthplace Cottage

A varied walk from the car park at Hardy’s Birthplace Cottage (NT) on Dorset heath, through woodland, field paths amongst the newborn spring lambs and the water meadows by a tributary of the River Frome.  We take the newly laid path up the hill sign posted Hardy’s Cottage and then descend once more to the Visitor Centre as we have failed to obtain our entrance tickets. Then the climb once more to the viewpoint of the cottage beyond the orchard and surrounded by productive vegetable plot. It’s picture postcard Dorset.

A proper start to the walk is postponed while we visit the Cottage, birthplace of author Thomas Hardy and enjoy wandering through the rooms of this tiny cottage furnished as it would have been during Hardy’s childhood.

Vandalism was taken seriously

Then we embark on the walk proper, climbing once again to the open heathland of Duddle Heath with its wild ponies and desperate attempts to clear back the gorse scrub. This is a lovely walk with open views to the south and west and we follow the path as it descends and enters a forest of pine trees.  A small navigational error before we regain the route and cross farmland on field paths with sheep and lambs on either side.

At Lower Bockhampton we take a raised causeway with fast flowing water on either side of the track and into the village of Stinsford. The small church is an important stop on the Hardy tourist trail as he was christened here, played viola for weddings and is the location of the graves of many members of his family. Although his ashes are buried in Poet’s Corner of Westminster Abbey his heart was buried here along with his first and second wives. Close by is the grave of Cecil Day Lewis, poet laureate, who requested  to be buried alongside his inspiration, Thomas Hardy.

The Church where Hardy's heart is buried

The return walk crosses further fields and a gentle climb back to our starting point. Once again we are just too late for lunch so it has to be tea and cake!

"Time changes everything except something within us which is always surprised by change."

Thomas Hardy

7 miles

Day 74 Portishead to Clevedon

Mary, Caro, Emme and Hobie are delivered to the start of the walk at The Windmill and follow the coastline of the Bristol Channel.

Today's guest blogger Caro. OK... well she didn't quite get around to it!

The walk follows the coastline of the Bristol Channel and links Portishead and Clevedon. Always worth doing as you can have lunch or tea and cake at "5 The Beach". Great place to be picked up by Ian and returned to Portishead!

5.5 miles

Day 70 East Prawle to Gara Rock and the Salcombe Estuary

Another fabulous walk with Chris and Fin along the coast in the South Hams. This includes some of our very favourite sections of the coast path. The weather is so much better today and we are able to enjoy the amazing views along the coast. This is really good training for Mary as the path has plenty of climbs and descents. This is a beautiful walk in calm weather and a sun which strengthens as the day continues.

By the time we reach the Gara Rock we are torn, unsure of what makes an appropriate snack at this time. In the end Mary and Chris opt for a breakfast bap and Ian a cream tea! OK a bit late for breakfast and too early for afternoon tea. From here we cut inland and down through the track to Mill Bay. Lots of primroses on the banks here and in another few weeks there will be bluebells all through the woods.

Can you spot the Pig's Nose?

At Mill Bay we walk the lower path along the side of the estuary with views up towards Salcombe, down to the mouth and across to Bolt Head. This is perfect with a break at Sunny Cove for Fin to have a swim in the bay.

Then on we go to Gara Rock, taking the lower path and when we reach the Pig's Nose up the hill and back along the road to East Prawle. A super walk with Chris and Fin on a perfect day for walking the coast path.


8.8 miles

Day 69 East Prawle to Start Point

A few days with Mary's sister in the South Hams at East Prawle. Shortly after arrival we head out on very muddy tracks and lanes on the inland route across country to Prawle Point. Unfortunately the East Prawle mist is down and we cannot even see the sea! As we reach the Point the mist starts to lift and the return walk on the coast path gives us views back to the lighthouse and along the coastline towards Prawle Point.

We stop for lunch overlooking rocks where seals are resting out of the sea and we spot one swimming close to the shore. Then on via Lannacombe beach (covered in seaweed) to the steady climb back to East Prawle. On a clear day this is a stunning coastal walk with fabulous views... today a lovely walk but on this occasion not much by the way of views!

Day 68 Somerton to Langport via Long Sutton

What a lovely spring day! Perfect for our planned walk from Somerton to Langport avoiding the main road. Heading off down Ricksey Lane we have a short section of the busy B3165 road as we climb towards South Hill. We walked the same way as our Day 64 walk but instead of heading back towards Pitney as we approach Upton we continue on the Macmillan Way and follow this into Long Sutton. The main A372 road is closed for resurfacing so the walk into the centre of the village is unusually quiet.

There are some lovely old cottages and houses in Long Sutton and strolling along the back roads you see more of this lovely community than is usual from the main road through its centre. The Village Green is perfect under a warm sun and blue sky and we are sidetracked into the Dev (The Devonshire Arms) for a cold drink. We have long abandoned our outer layers and are walking in T shirts.

Perhaps I should have given the pint of cider a miss as it is a struggle to get going once again. We are continuing to follow the Macmillan Way and are now heading across the Levels with Long Sutton Church behind us, Muchelney Church away to our left and ahead the towers of the three Churches at Huish Episcopi and Langport.

An error in navigation puts us on the wrong side of the River as we pass the abattoir and we have to retrace our steps or face a long detour via Muchelney. It does mean we have to navigate a particularly high stile for a second time but better that than not turning back.

The last part of the walk is on the Parrett Trail into Langport and we arrive at 3.05 to discover that the cafe at Bow Wharf closed at 3.00 so we continue to the Parrett Cafe for a sandwich and coffee (Ian) and a cream tea (Mary). On the plus side we are now in the right place to catch the bus back to Somerton, which we do!

10 miles

Day 64 Ricksey Lane to South Hill and on to Somerton Hill and Home

Another showery day and we are wet before we have walked 100 yards! We have decided to try a new route, one which takes us down Ricksey Lane south of Somerton and up onto the ridge at South Hill. We have never walked this route on this side of the town and there are views back towards the old centre of Somerton and south towards Yeovil.

The path here is mostly along tracks and footpaths through woods and on field edges. The woods have both snowdrops and a few clumps of daffodils.


There are signs here that the seasons are changing with a hint of green on the south facing hedgerows and blackthorn in blossom.

For this part of the walk we are following one of the Macmillan Way tracks but we leave this near Upton to cross the railway line and take to field paths across to Somerton Hill.

From here it is turn left for a perilous walk along the B3153 to the Halway House or right and then after a short distance left, once again following a field path to Somertonfield Road near Westcombe. From here with rain threatening once again we take the well used route back to Somerton down Bancombe Road.

6.7 miles

Day 62 Back of Somerton Walk

Yes, we've done this before but with uncertain weather on this occasion we actually got pretty wet, we needed to get out into some fresh air. The forecast was for showers and we had hardly left home before the first swept over us. So as we were already wet we decided to continue and see how wet and muddy this walk had now had become.  Even with further heavy showers it turned out to be not too bad and pausing only to note the time of two passing trains (for Tom's benefit) we completed the walk without getting too wet.

3.3 miles

Day 61 Mary's Walk with Bake Off Val

Mary's Great Wall of China Challenge is being undertaken with Val Stones a near neighbour who has become something of a celebrity as a consequence of appearing on the 2016 "Great British Bake Off". Along with Lynne and Bev (Mary's masseuse) they are together undertaking the Charity Challenge of a trek on the Great Wall of China. Those able to join in regularly meet at about 4.00pm to undertake a quick walk around the valley.  This walk has either a long gentle uphill or descent or a shorter steeper climb or drop and in either direction presents useful training for the challenge to come.

3 miles

Day 60 Portishead from The Windmill Pub

The first few days of March and we have kept the mileage up, though inclement weather and other activities have prevented longer walks. The month started with a walk at Portishead with Caro and Hobie with Mary carrying Emme in a carrier. A regular for us on visits to Caro and Benji's starting at the Windmill Pub and crossing common land above the the estuary of the Severn before dropping to sea level and walking above the flats on the promenade and climbing into the woods before completing the circuit and returning to the car. No great distance but lovely views across the channel towards Wales and as far as the Severn Crossing.

2.7 miles